I come from Southern families. We love biscuits. I think it is just part of being from the South. Bagels, yep, we’ve learned to like them, but fix them? Not so much. But biscuits, we understand.
My daughter,Enslow, who now lives in New York City makes biscuits. Once while I was visiting, she served cheese toasted biscuits and I wondered out loud,” Are we the only people that do this”? Her thinking was that we were the ony people who made biscuits that you could put cheese on.
I know that’s not true, but I know we go way back with biscuits. My mother, one of 15 children on the tobacco farm, often spoke of making biscuits before leaving for school. These biscuits would be part of every family meal that day and also food for the field hands. I think the number started at 50, but over the years, I believe it got to about 500. In another story she explained how you cleaned your patent leather shoes with old biscuits. Made them shine. Maybe it was the lard.
My father was raised in a really small town,and his family also loved biscuits. Actually the family member that was most found of them was Remus, the hound dog that belong to my uncle. Remus would catch,swallow, and catch again, as quickly as you could throw them. He was a great delight to watch. My uncle often visited the Angle Inn just outside of town, and Remus liked to join him. Feeling badly that his great dog had to sit outside while he enjoyed his beer, my uncle would call the local cab driver and send Remus home. It was wonderful to see the cab pull up in front of Big Mama’s house and the cabbie let Remus out. Life was slower then. And it was a small town.
All of my mother’s sisters could cook. I know with so much work and so many helpers, my Grandma quit cooking as soon as she could. No problem. Everyone was a great cook. We lived on my Gradma’s farm for a few years. My sister, Barbara, and I became accustomed to good country food.
But time passes and soon it was the early ’50’s and the things -they were a changing. We moved to a different small town and only got to visit the country. And they changed there too. Barbara remembers with dismay the first time she saw Myrtilla, a great bread maker, open a cardboard “can” of biscuits. The world stopped. Actually part of it had. These women, who had cooked for so long, and worked so hard in kitchens and in the fields, now had companies presenting them with prepared food in the grocery store. Hallelujah! Free at last! Who could blame them. But some of us missed the real biscuits.
But I also understand Time and the choices we make when we spend it. And I’ve used “canned biscuits”. They are still awful. But I think today’s shoppers are trying to be more authentic in food and cooking, and still have good food with out too much time preparing.
So I did my own small study of what’s available in the biscuit line. We[Bruce, my husband, and I] tried 4 different types:
Canned
Bisquik
From scratch
Frozen
My Aunt Lacy’s Angel Biscuits
The last recipe was written down for me by my Aunt Lacy, my mother’s sister. She kinda’ gave me a list of the ingredients, wrote refridgerator and wrote bake. I filled in the rest. Lacy was a great cook. I used the bowl given to me by her twin, Lena, as my mixing bowl. Family things mean a great deal to me. So, this is a tribute to all those wonderful cooks in my mother’s family–this time it’s mostly for Lacy.
Here are the recipes and our evaluations.
Fair warning, Bruce and I see and taste food quite differently.
Canned biscuits: just say NO. they are all awful, and have strange words in them.
Bisquik: Bruce liked them, thought they had flavour; I thought they were way too dry, and crumbled when trying to open. Did not hold up well over night-even more dry. Still better than can
From scratch: Bruce thought they need salt; I liked them, thought they “opened” well, toasted well and held up the next morning as a cold biscuit; took 13 minutes to fix before cooking.
Frozen; Used Pillsbury Southern Style: we both liked them; really easy to fix–only need cooking time; hold up reasonably well overnight and toast well next day. You can cook as few as one and save the rest.
Lacy’s Angel Biscuits: Oh good grief. Really, really good. We both loved them. Great taste, opens well, holds up well over night. wonderful alone, with butter, honey, jelly, cheese. This is the ONE. Absolutely great. The most time to fix, but oh so worth it if you want a great biscuit. But you need to commit to the bit of extra time and planning. And the recipe makes about 3 dozen. Maybe a party for this, or good neighbours, or lots of freezer room. I have great neighbours–who really liked them too–and a freezer. I’ll let you know how well they keep over time.
Two recipes:
Notes:
Don’t mess with the dough too much. It will make the biscuits tough.
You may have a favourite biscuit recipe or a favourite mom to ask. This is the one I used, and I liked it enough to try it again. There is an art to biscuit making. And it takes a little practice.
From the Fannie Farmer Cookbook, 13th edition
2 cups flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 tablespoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 cup vegetable shortening
2/3 cup of buttermilk
Preheat oven to 425*F. Grease two 8 inch cake pans. Put flour, salt baking powder, sugar and baking soda in a large bowl. Stir with a fork.
Cut the shortening into the dry mixture with two knives or a pastry blender until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Pour milk in all at once and stir just until the dough forms a ball in the bowl.Turn the dough onto a lightly floured board and knead 14 times. Pat until 1/2 inch thick. Cut into rounds and place in cake pans with sides touching. Bake for 15-20 minutes.
And now The Recipe:
Lacy’s Angel Biscuits;
* 5 cups flour
* 1 package active dry yeast
* 2 tablespoons warm water [this is for the yeast]
* 2 cups buttermilk
* 2 teaspoons baking powder
* 1 teaspoon baking soda
* 1 tablespoon salt
* 1 cup shortening
The dough needs to be kept in the refrigerator over night or for about 8-9 hours. This is the extra time and planning part.
Have all the necessary ingredients out on the counter. Then mix the yeast with the water and set on counter. Combine ALL of the dry ingredients. Stir with a fork. Add shortening. Cut it in with two knives or a pastry cutter. Dump in yeast mixture and buttermilk all at once. I turned the dough in a bowl, but it can be kneaded on a lightly floured surface about 15 times. Pat it into a ball and place in a bowl. Cover with a cloth and a plate. Put in refrigerator.
Wait.
Take out of refrigerator and pat or roll into a 1/2 inch round. [learn to measure 1/2 inch by your index finger]cut with biscuit cutter. I like slightly smaller biscuits than some, but choose your size and cut away. Place on ungreased cookie sheets-have them touching. Put in a 400* oven for about 18 minutes. This makes a lot of biscuits–really good ones.
Please just try this recipe. It is fun and wonderful. As I have done the cooking research for this post, I have learned a great deal about biscuits. Something like a biscuit was one of the first items early people learn to cook over a fire. And here we are still cooking them.
Cooking is a pleasure–it is also a human gift.